I got an email from Hollis at Past Perfect Vintage saying that she had two great Helen Bond Carruthers sweaters.  One was going into her webstore, but the other had some worrysome problems: It had numerous tiny holes, and it had no label.  Would I be interested in the problematic one?

After seeing photos of this gorgeous sweater, I said yes, I'll buy it.  So why would I be interested in a holey sweater with no label?

First, I really do try to find the very best example of an item that I'm interested in.  Condition is important, but I'm interested in a damaged item if it is all original and the damage does not detract from the way it looks and the item is stable, and not in danger of further damage.  I would not be wearing this, the holes are not obvious and can be stablized.

Besides, it was a Helen Bond Carruthers sweater, one of the very best names in vintage sweaters.  Carruthers did not make sweaters; she and her workshop decorated them.  She bought the very best cashmere sweaters - Dalton, I've heard - and decorated them with all kinds of fabulous textiles: bits of antique embroidery, European laces and printed fabrics.

But without a label, how could Hollis and I both be positive this was from Carruthers's workshop?  This is where experience in handling objects really pays off.  Hollis is from Kentucky, not too far from where the sweaters were decorated in Versailles, Kentucky, and she has seen and examined more of them first hand than have I.  She knew just the details to look for:  sleeves that were turned under and hemmed on the inside, a hem that was formed by cutting the bottom of the sweater and attaching a wide 2 1/4") grosgrain ribbon to the inside, tiny hand stitching that attached the appliques, lavish decoration on front, back and both sleeves.  In addition, she could see the stitching where the large "Helen Bond Carruthers" label had been attached to the grosgrain ribbon, and the other sweater she acquired - the labeled one - had the identical applique technique.  There is absolutely no doubt that this sweater is a product of HBC.

Two more indications:  the buttons had been replaced with antique buttons, and the decoration is not "matched."  All the HBC sweaters I ever examined have had special buttons added, usually "pearl" ones, but also glass antique buttons like this one.  And the two side fronts are not mirror images, and neither are the sleeves.

There really are no shortcuts when it comes to identifying vintage fashion.  Even with a label, it pays to know what to look for in a particular maker's garments.

 

 

I've been waiting to see this one. Godhead! It's breathtaking.

Isn't it so very,very pretty? The holes were heartbreaking, but I knew Lizzie would appreciate it and give it a good home.

Thank you for that detailed lesson. You are a great teacher, Lizzie.

What a gorgeous sweater. This is one of the best I've seen. I love her designs on black...so dramatic.

Why do some people even bother decorating a sweater when this is the absolute pinnacle of perfection? Take that Anthropologie. ;)

Very good eye for details! And that's a very pretty sweater.

The sweater is great!
Glad you are on the mend.

I'm glad you all love this as much as I do!

Holly, you can take the girl out of the classroom...

Amari, thanks. It's pretty much healed now.

The design is very beautiful.