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Tuesday, September 9th 2008

5:45 PM

Vera Neumann and the Engineered Print

That wild-looking piece of fabic is actually an uncut Vera blouse.  Find the two sleeves, the two back pieces and the front and you can see how this worked.

According to Vera's nephew, Fred Salaff, the designs for the clothing pieces were based on a 36" X 36" original that Vera painted.  Her clothing designers would then take the original and manipulate it into the pieces for the garment.  I'd think that the original would have been quite similar to the front piece, which is in the lower left of the photograph.

This type of print is an engineered print.  Pucci was known for his engineered prints, as was Leonard of Paris.  The print being engineered means that each piece - the sleeves, the collar... - are designed and printed to fit the pattern piece instead of being cut from an all-over design.

The fabrics were printed in Vera's Ossining, New York factory, and then they were sent to a sewing plant in Grafton, West Virginia.  Somehow this piece (and 2 others) ended up in Kansas City, Missouri, in the collection of a Vera fan.  They were then sold to an eBay seller at an estate sale.

Upon close examination, the printing in the piece has a few irregularities.  It's my guess that this is a "factory reject," not up to the high quality expected of a Vera garment.  So somewhere along the line, either at the printing factory, or at the sewing facility, this piece was pulled from production.  How it got into the hands of the collector is just a guess, but it's possible that employees were allowed to take these home.  It's also possible they were sold in a factory outlet.

Back in the 1960s and 70s, factory outlets were very different than those found in the huge "outlet malls" of today.  Factory outlets were at the factory and they sold an assortment of rejected and flawed items, unsold merchandise, and other mistakes.  When I was growing up, all my underwear came from the Her Majasty outlet in Mauldin, SC.  My mom and her friends would make a day of it, going from outlet to outlet snapping up the bargains.  And when I got older, I shopped the many fabric outlets in North Carolina.  But best of all was the Hadley cashmere outlet.  Just thinking about it makes me sad.

 

2 Comments.

Posted by Pallas:

Just love the paisley and the concept of the pieces printed onto the fabric thus eliminating a pattern.

We used to shop in an OP (Ocean Pacific) outlet in Southern California in the late 60s and early 70s. We were able to buy some great clothes and the flaws were easily overlooked.:)
Friday, September 12th 2008 @ 5:06 PM

Posted by Lizzie Bramlett:

Hi Pallas, it is amazing how the designers manipulated the design so that an entire shirt was printed on 50 inches of fabric!

Most of my clothes in the 60s and 70s had those little flaws! A small price to pay for such bargains. Lizzie
Wednesday, September 17th 2008 @ 4:18 AM

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