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Wednesday, August 6th 2008

1:24 PM

Faking it

 

In the 1970s Vivienne Westwood and Malcolm McLaren made Punk history with their shops, Sexand Seditonaries.  The emphesis was on whatever would shock, such as swastikas, the Queen, and an up-side-down crucifix, all on the same shirt.

Photo of Vivienne Westwood in 1977

According to McLaren, these t-shirts were actually made in his kitchen.  The number made was quite small; just what he and Westwood could turn out.  Who would have guessed that this street fashion would turn out to be thought of as iconic?

Fast forward to 2008.  Artist Damien Hirst spends almost $160,000  on several garbage bags full of Westwood/McLaren tees, only to find out that they are fakes.  The person declaring them to be fakes is none other then Malcolm McLaren, who ought to know.  According to McLaren, the fabric and type of stitch was all wrong.  Another  big tip-off that the items were fake was the large number of them.  McLaren says they just did not make that many.

The details are a bit murky, but it seems that some students have been making fake Westwood/McLaren tees, even reproducing the labels.  Several parties have stepped forward to claim responsibilty, but interestingly, the dealer who sold them to Hirst continues to insist that the items are authentic, and that McLaren actually had little to do with the making of the original clothing.

I started collecting vintage clothing before Westwood and McLaren made the originals, and the idea of fakes was just not in my mind.  It wasn't until the internet and the lure of easy money that fakes in vintage clothing have become a major problem.  Still, the manufacturing of fakes is a new one on me; the easy way is to simply label switch.

There have been a couple of high profile eBay sellers who have been caught in the act.  One took the label from a pair of Saint Laurent Rive Gauche slacks and sewed it into a dress.  The switch was caught because there were certain marks on the label that made the switch obvious when photos were compared. 

But there are some funny stupid crook stories, in which sellers have taken labels from designer hats and ties, and have sewn them into dress.  The words "chapeux" and "cravet" tend to give those away!

So, how to avoid being taken?  Know your styles and know the seller.  Buy from people you have had good transactions with previously.  Ask lots of questions, and if they are evaded, spend your money elsewhere!

 

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